Epee overview
Epee developed from the dueling swords that developed in the court of Louis XIV of
France. In Epee the weapon used is a maximum of 770grams,
with a maximum length of 110cm. The valid target area is the whole body, head to toe,
including arms and hands. Any hit upon the earthed piste or on the opponent’s grounded
weapon will not cause the apparatus to register. Epee evolved from the sword, favored
by duelists of the time. It follows that, in modern fencing, the whole body is valid target area for
epee, and that the basic rule of engagement is that the first to hit his or her opponent, has scored.
Training for sword fighting (for dueling or combat purposes) concentrated on thrusts to the torso,
where hits would have the most lethal effect. This training led to the development of blunt lightweight
weapons, protective clothing, and limited "valid" target areas, which are now applicable to foil fencing.

1 In the normal state there is no connection through the apparatus. This state produces no light and would be the state of the circuit as the fencers come on guard.
2 When the point is depressed by any surface except the opponents guard or a connected metallic floor (piste) the circuit is made and a red or green "hit" light comes on.
3 When the point is depressed at the same time as it is in contact with the opponents guard or piste a new circuit is made. This new circuit causes no light to come on.
As well as being electrical, the system also has a mechanical component. That is, moving parts and electronics working in conjunction cause the lights to come on.

The nature of the system means that both mecanical and electrical faults can cause the system to function incorrectly.

2
After setting the blade, lock the blade in a vise with the tang vertical. Slide on the guard making sure the blade wire runs inside the indent (as shown by the arrow).

3
Slide on the inside-guard socket, making sure the red blade wires are inside the guard socket’s hole (otherwise the wires would be trapped between the guard and the socket and split).

12
Push the pad back into place and check the tightness of all the nuts.

If your weapon will not register a hit or fails the travel test then you will need to replace or stretch the contact spring. To do this you will need a small flatbladed screwdriver and if available a vice or volunteer pair of hands to hold the weapon while you work. Clamp the epee in the vice or have someone hold it so the top stays still and, using a magnetized point screwdriver (you can magnetise a screwdriver by rubbing it against a fridge magnet), remove the two small tip/grub screws. It is best to keep one finger over the point as you remove the second screw to prevent the point from springing off onto the floor.

These are the parts found in an epee point. You can clearly see the difference between the copper coloured pressure spring and the small steel coloured contact spring that is attatched to the point

If hits do not register hits or register intermitantly:
The contact spring is too short and it can be stretched. To stretch the spring you should insert your fingernail or a small screwdriver near where the spring enters the point and then pull the end of the spring gently to stretch it. You will need to stretch the spring approximately 0.5mm to get the correct travel.

In order to stretch the spring evenly you may find it best to rotate the point your nail/screwdriver is inserted into the spring at several different locations around the spring and stretch it slightly with your nail at each location. If hits do register but the weapon fails the travel test: The contact spring is too long and it is best to replace the spring. This problem is much rarer than the spring being too short. You can replace the spring by twisting the itanti clockwise to unscrew it and replacing it with a new spring reference number E23. The weapon can then be tested either with a test box or apparatus to ensure that the new spring is the correct length. If the weapon fails the weight test: The large copper colourd spring is old and needs to be replaced this can be swapped for a new spring reference E18. Once re assempled the weapon should be checked with a weight top ensure that it will lift 750g.

	Point adjustment and cleaning Most problems with epees can be fixed in the point.Plug the epee into your test box using the bodywire/cord. No light should show. When the tip is depressed, the red light should light. In the illustration, the epee is locked in the vice and the tip depressed by my foot.

1 Place a 750 gram test weight gently on the tip of the epee; the light should remain off. The tip has to have more than a 750 gram weight resistance to be legal.	2 Next, place your finger gently on the test weight and increase the pressure applied. This should make the tester’s red light turn on.	3 To test the travel of an epee use the 0.50 mm feeler gauge. “Travel” is how far the tip has to move before a hit is registered. When the 0.50 mm front gauge is placed between the barrel and the tip and the tip depressed until there is no space between the tip gauge and barrel, no light should show on the tester.
4 If any of these tests do not work, follow these instructions:		5 Clamp the epee in the vise so the top stays still and, using a magnetized point screwdriver, remove the two small tip/grub screws.
	7 The tip has a small contact spring which is what closes the circuit and makes a hit register. When this contact spring is too long, the epee will fail the 0.50 mm feeler gauge test. When the spring is too short the weapon will either not register hits or will register intermitantly. If the spring is too short it can be either replaced or stretched. To stretch the spring you should insert your fingernail or a small screwdriver near where the spring enters the point and then pull the spring gently to stretch it. In order to stretch the spring evenly you may find it best to rotate the point at which your nail/screwdriver is inserted into the spring. If the large spring, which controls the pressure needed to score a hit, fails the 750 gram weight test ie. the spring no longer lifts a 750g weight then this spring is too weak and should be replaced.
6 These are the parts found in an epee point.

Rewire

Clamp the epee securely in the vice, with the handle up and the wires facing towards you. Remove the Hex nut and any washers, as well as the handle.
Unscrew the wire holders in the inside guard socket, and remove the Pad and IGS.
Remove both the Guard and the two plasic sleeves insulating the wires. Retain the sleeves for re-assembley.
Remove both the Guard and the two plasic sleeves insulating the wires. Retain the sleeves for re-assembley. Rotate the blade in the vice so that the tip can be worked on, and dissassemble the point. Place the parts( complete epee tip, weight spring and two grub screws)in a dish or on a magnet and remove the epee point base.Once this is removed, use a point setting screwdriver and poke out the nylon wire cup inside the base.
Rotate the blade in the vice so that the tip can be worked on, and dissassemble the point.
Once the point is apart, carefully examine for wear and place to one side. Then either insert a suitable tool into both screw holes or use a spanner to unscrew the barrel.
Use a small screwdriver or stiff paperclip and push out the plasic contact block from the epee point base.
Then rotate the blade in the vice again so that the wires are upermost.
Then using a pair of pliers, remove both the wires.
Once the wire is out, use a broken hacksaw blade or craft knife to clean the last of the glue out. This will also score the surface slightly and provide a good key for the blade glue.
Carefully unwind the new wire and ensure that it is straight and free of knots. Then thread the wire through the barrel, stopping just above so that the wire can rotate freely.
Rotate the blade in the vice point uppermost. Drip a small amount of Locknut onto the thread (do not use superglue)
Then screw on the barrel, tightening with a small spanner. During this process it is essential that you do not trap the wires, so ensure that they are free running by moving them up and down whilst tightening.
Use an epee point seating tool to correctly press home the plastic cap into the point base. If you do not have one, use a small screwdriver, but be aware that any uneven pressure on the two contact points may cause you problems with the travel spring.
Once this is done re-assemble the point, checking for sighns of wear and tear. (see point reassembly)
Turn the blade round in the vice and wrap some tape around the tang as shown. This will protect the wire whilst securing the wire to the tang.
Run your fingers down the epee wire, ensuring that there are no kinks and run the wires down the bottom of the blade groove,side-by-side and parallel to each other along the entire length of the blade. Then double the wire back along itself, then around the tang several times to secure it.(wrap_wire1180.jpg)
Pre-tension the blade, either with string or using a length of chain. Use an epee wire seating tool to ensure that the wire is held in the correct position for glueing, and glue the handle end first.(glue_wire1230.jpg)
When this is dry, undo the wire from the tang. This will prevent the wire from sticking to the tang if too much glue is run down the blade. Rotate the blade in the vice again, and alow several drops of glue to run down the blade. Do not use excess glue, and do not start glueing to near the barrel. Capilliary pressure will put glue inside the point if you do not leave a gap of 3mm. (glue_wire_length1254.jpg)
Once the blade glue has dried, remove the tensioner and place tang upermost in the vice. Slide on two plastic insulating sleeves and ensure they rest just on the shoulders. It is possible to fix them in place with a drop of glue. (glue sleeves.jpg)
Re-assemble the handle. This process is essentialy a reversal of the disassembly, however care must be taken to ensure that the wires pass under the reccess cut in the handle and guard.(under arch.jpg)If they do not, the wires are likely to be pinched, causing problems later.This can be very easily examined if you use one of LP's new see through guard pads.
Once the weapon is re-assembled and working, check both travel(link)and weight(link) before using.

There is little point in attempting to repair your foil without at least the items listed as essential below. Some of these are common things that most households should have, however other items (test box, test weight etc..) are fencing specific and can be purchased from manufactures. Leon Paul now stock a repair kit reference **** which contains all the items you need to get you started.

Click on the image to enlarge